Cuzco & Machu Picchu

Time is flying by now.

After the rush of the mountains in Huaraz we took a night bus to Lima. The plan was to meet mum at the airport after her long and arduos flight from Sydney. Unfortunately, our much anticipated re-union after almost three months didn't quite go according to plan. (as with so much of our travels in Peru!!)

Eva and I were a touch late arriving at the airport, for reasons I needn't explain. It was around 11pm when we got there and mum was frantic. She had left her bag with a fellow she met on the plane and was manically running around the arrivals hall looking for us...Oops, sorry mum!


After getting that little incident behind us we managed to get out and enjoy a little of what Lima has to offer by way of ancinet ruins and good food!

Eva & I had a beautiful dinner in a restaurant at the base of Ancient Ruins - very nice!

At the Huaca Pucllana ruins in Lima - Mum was still a little jaded at this point

A couple of days in the city were enough though and we were soon on a plane bound for Cusco. A truly beautiful, ancient city with Incan walls, colonial buildings, statues and narrow cobblestoned streets. We spent quite a bit of time trawling the markets and walking around absorbing the atmosphere of the place. The days have been idyllic with blue skies and warm sun. The nights and mornings though are freezing.

As well as being named as the bellybutton of the world, Cusco is also famous for its rather tasty beer - Cusquena and the local Cuscuenans don't mind downing a few it the honour of various fiestas. We have seen two so far; Semana Sunday on the day we arrived when the streets were full of people parading, playing music, eating, drinking and generally having great time. The second involved seemingly all of the children and adolescents in the town performing various indigenous dances and parades. Again there were marching bands everywhere in the streets and marquees set up with people selling beer and food. It was a fabulous energy.

Tasty street food of alpaca, beef heart and chicken kebabs topped with a boiled spud.
This was a little too much for Mum to bear!

We arrived and the city was in full swing for a Semana Santa Festival - Cuzco loves to party

Eva and Mum and an Incan wall

Kids dancing in the Plaza de Armas they were sooo cute!

The costumes were amazing

The Sacred Valley just outside of Cusco was also beautiful, the Incan ruins were impressive and we definitely could have spent more time there. 

Ruins of Inca Terraces and burial sites at Pisac

Markets in Pisac

Ollantaytambo ruins - massive!

But of course the ultimate place was Machu Picchu. It really is incredible, awe-inspiring, majestic, mystical and more..... The site itself sits on the top of a mountain, but it is also surrounded by stunning jagged peaks. We spent hours wandering around, picnicking and enjoying just being there. I wish that we had the opportunity to have been shown around by a shaman guide though. Our fellow was informative and historically sound but he didn't delve into the rituals and spiritual beliefs of the Incas and that element of the culture is fascinating and you could definitely feel something spiritual about the place.

My photo doesn't do it justice, but in the mountain behind Machu Picchu - can you see the profile of a face w a big nose. It is looking up to the sky.

Who expected llamas to be there, just hanging out and walking around?

When you are in the know, apparently the mountain talks to you, as do the birds! And the Incan understanding of astronomy was incredible, there was a stone in the shape of the southern cross and when a compass was placed on it it pointed exactly North South. There is also a mountain to the East where the sun rises on the June 20th and another to the south where it rises six months later to the day, so they could measure the year. As well as lots of other incredible stuff like temples and water fountains. It is a truly an incredible place.

At the end of a big day. Thankyou Machu Picchu.

Peru – The land of the long bus ride.

Well we finally made it to Peru – after an arduous overnight bus journey and border crossing we landed in Piura at 6am. We swapped the bus for a minivan to get to Mancora, on the north coast. The trip was a long 3 hours, driving through a desert-like sandy landscape that seemed to go on forever and dotted with tiny villages made of basic adobe houses and surrounded by tonnes of garbage.

Mancora appeared out of nowhere in a dusty haze. It seemed like a buzzing toursit mecca from where we stopped on the Panamericana, the street was lined with shops and heaps of noisy and cute looking moto-taxis swamped the road. 

Eva geared up and standing in front of a moto-taxi.

 Once we stepped off the main road though it was clear that Mancora was a rustic, rundown village of mostly mudbrick houses and bamboo and palm leaf bungalows. Except of course for the big tourist hotels built right on the beach that looked totally out of place among the rest. We stayed in a bungalow a couple of streets back from the beach – it was lovely, basic and more in tune with our budget. 

Mancora is famous for the beach, it is beautiful and goes on for miles, although a security guard came and stopped us from walking too far as she said that it was unsafe. There were a few surfers out, but most of the crowd were there to party hard! We spent a couple of lovely days hanging out though – we hadn't seen a beach for a while!

One disappointment was the amount of rubbish everywhere, especially on the beach. Even the big places built right on the edge of the beach had just dumped their building rubble onto the sand. Go figure! Nothing quite like dumping garbage in your own front yard. ...I just couldn't get it, especially as the beach itself was covered with limes and tomato offcuts, and other rubbish and there were too many touts selling dried sea horses, turtles shells and coral. It was a little sad and hard to understand.

After sitting on the side of the road at midnight to wait for a bus, we headed to Chiclayo. I thought that it was going to be a small town nearby to some ancient pyramids, but no. It was a crazy, manic metropolis with cars and taxis jamming the roads and noise and a sick smell everywhere. We found our way to the central market and were assaulted by the sights and smells of it. It was like a maze that never ended and everything that you could imagine was for sale, from old boots, typwriters and sewing machines to pigs heads and herbal remedies. We came upon a whole section where huge fish were lying on trestle tables for sale, covered in flies. The smell was like nothing else.

After losing ourselves in the market we finally made our way out, but not before buying a backpack for Eva. It was lucky we did because half an hour later, our other backpack got stolen. We went into a swanky modern restaurant that was recommended in the Lonely Planet. It was clean and sleek with modern orange seats and huge central water feature. But we got a little dazzled by our surroundings. We haven't been going to these sorts of places, $2.00 lunches in local style restaurants are more our thing– anyway, we took our eyes off the backpack for about 15 seconds and it was stolen. Of course it had the new camera and my phone in it! Bummer! The police were called and we did get a ride through central Chiclayo on the back of police motorbikes with the siren going. At least that was a little fun. We were also lucky that they had CCTV footage of the incident and the restuarant manager could speak a little English. He was a really nice guy and actually came to the police station with us and helped interpret. Thank goodness becuase I don't know what we would have done otherwise, he was a godsend. He also invited us back to the restaurant for a free dinner and breakfast as he felt so bad about what had happened. Obviously then, things could have been a lot worse. But we don't have any photos of Mancora or Vilcabamba in Ecuador.

The pyramids and museums in Chiclayo did manage to take our minds off our misfortune though – they were impressive, especially the gold and silver jewelry and the mummies. 

Eva holding a replica of a brick used to build the pyramids

Ceremonial mask of the Lord of Sipan

Eva standing with the "Lord of Sipan"

One of the massive 'pyrmids' of Tucume

 

Two nights were more than enough for us in Chiclayo and we hit the buses once again – this time headed for Huaraz, up high in the Cordillera Blanca Mountains, via a quick visit to Huanchaco on the coast off Trujillo. Another beautiful beach where we saw the sun set over the sea as we arrived. Huanchaco is more developed than Mancora but still beautiful. A nice little place to hang out, but we only had a meal then jumped on an overnight bus.

Huanchaco Beach

Eva sitting in a bus-cama total luxury compared to the Ecuadorian buses - we are on our way to Huaraz in style!

The view outside our bedroom in the hostel - beautiful!

Huaraz, at 3100m, was beautiful and surrounded by stunning snowcapped mountains. It is a trekking and mountaineering mecca and it is no wonder, the mountains are calling out to be explored, but it is not for the feint hearted. We took a bus trip to visit the Pastoruri glacier, which at 5200m, was very high. Altitude was definintely affecting both of us. I had to carry Eva the last couple of hundred metres to get her there. For me it was definintely worth the effort, although I'm not sure that Eva would agree! She felt sick, had a head ache and just wanted to go to sleep!

On our way back in the bus, it broke down! At one point everyone from the bus was out trying to push it. I wish that I got a photo of that! We were stuck up really high, about 4800m and all of the kids were sick with altitude and the guide's cell phone didn't have reception. Luckily one of the Swiss tourists on the bus was a mountaineer and had a satellite phone, otherwise we would have been out there all night as there was no-one around and we were miles from anywhere! Thankfully a minivan finally appeared to take us back, but not before a couple of the people on the bus lost it with the driver and the guide. You guessed it, it was the obnoxious Americans, threatening to sue them! By the time we got home it was 9pm and we both went straight to bed. My head was pounding.

At a spring where carbonated mineral water was bubbling up from the ground. It didn't taste too good though!

Native Peruvian plants that live for 100 years and flower only once during that time. They were huge.

Eva at the base of the Pastoruri Glacier

After that Eva said that she wasn't going to venture into the mountains again – although of course, being the courageous person that she is, she agreed to go on an un-guided trek to Laguna 69 two days later. At 4800m we were hoping that altitude wouldn't be such an issue. The walk was amazing- stunningly beautiful and it was so lovely to be in nature, away from crowds and cars. We didn't make it to the final lake, the high pass was a little too much, but the day we spent out there walking for about 5 hours was totally uplifting and thoroughly enjoyable!

Not Laguna 69 but another beautiful torqiouse blue lake we saw

After that fix of nature it was again time to board an overnight bus, this time bound for Lima. The city of 9 million people that is packed with people, noise, cars and pollution. Quite a change from the peace and grandeur of the mountains! Mum is coming in two days though and we have to be there to meet her!

Peru - it's growing on us slowly!

Cuenca - the beautiful city

We arrived in Cuenca and were immediately struck by how beautiful the city was. There are heaps of old colonial buildings in the city centre, an enormous cathedral and the gorgeous Plaza de Armas which give the city a a beautiful feel.

Inside here was a beautiful art gallery - we almost came away with a sculpture of a frigate bird and a painting of quito

We spent hours walking around the streets and found ourselves a lovely new camera to replace the one we have been using which is frustratingly poor.

We stayed in a cheap as chips hostel for $12 per night and the city so lovely that we stayed four days! The best fun was the visit to the museum with Incan ruins, a bird avairy with toucans, eagles, and macaws and wonderful displays of life in the different regions of Ecuador, including shrunken heads made by the Shuar people in the jungle. They were incredible, fully intact with nasal hairs, eyelashes and all. It was very freaky and strangely mesmerising- although Eva couldn't get out there quickly enough!

We caught a kids circus performance in a beautiful old theatre in town

From Cuenca we headed to the sleepy hamlet of Vilcabamba. A place in a valley that is famous for the longevity of its inhabitants, many of whom have lived to over 100 years. The place was beautiful and the hostel we stayed in was moe like a health resort that an hostel. We spent an idyllic three days here, walking in the hills and catching up on school work and I handed in the last of my Uni stuff so it was an incredible sense of relief. It was with some reluctance that we packed our bags to leave for the night bus to Peru.

The Jungle

After a fairly straight forward couple of buses, we arrived in Misahualli. It is the end of the road really, the last town before you jump into a canoe and head down the river toward jungle. The town itself is awesome, a sleepy village with dirt roads and troop of cheeky monkeys that roam free through the town.

Here we are sitting in the canoe ready to go.

We organised to go to an indigenous village Shiripuno, with a local Kichwa guide, who lives there with his family. The place was surreal, it consisted of palm leaf and bamboo huts, tarantulas and an awesome plantation where they grow most of their food, including chocolate, bananas, papaya, coffee, yuka (like potato) and all manner of other things, including medicinal plants and herbs. No electricity, noise, packaging, rubbish or junk food. Just sweet, simple living.

The village - Shiripuno

This was the hut that we stayed in - fully equipped with bed, hammock and composting loo!

One the first day we made chocolate from cocoa beans, it was absolutely incredibly delicious! we were shown how to make platted wrist bracelets and explored the plantation. Within half an hour of being there we had seen a tarantula - a very big, hairy, and strangely cute one! We both touched it but I couldn't bring myself to hold it.

The second day we took a canoe down the river to visit an animal reserve. The place was amazing, we saw toucans, macaws, monkeys, ocelots, caiman, a tortoise and heaps of other animals. Although it was raining so hard I'm surprised we saw anything. I have never gotten so wet so quickly, it was incredible. Waterfalls and flash flooding were created in minutes.

Eva preparing the fish for dinner

A beautiful macaw

Cooking the fish for dinner on the fire

The third day we trekked through primary jungle with a group of American Uni student volunteers who were on an Outward Bound  program. They were an amazing bunch of people and we shared an incredible experience. We swung through the trees on a tarzan vine, sampled medicinal herbs to treat asthma and sinus - oh my god the sinus remedy nearly blew my head off it was so strong but it definitely cleared things up, and walked to a waterfall and swimming hole. It was an exhilirating day. Absolutely incredible and like nothing that I have ever imagined. I'm so glad that we went.

This was the biggest tree I have ever seen in my life. It would ake about 40 - 50 people holding hands to go around the trunk. Thruly amazing!

Eva making chocolate

Playing with the monkeys in the town.

The monkeys in Misahualli were free to roam whereever they want around the town and they could be seen running along roofs, crawling on powerlines, walking in the streets and the main park, at the beach and of course in the trees. They were incredibly cheekey and mischevious. They loved to steal things and run off into the trees to play with them, just for fun. They would jump onto us without hesitation, just to play, pull our hair, steal our things or check us out - although some liked to bite! I even saw them playing with the local and dogs - that was quite a sight: a monkey pulling a dog's tail! Priceless!

Going to School in Banos

We have been in Banos now for over a week, living happily with the Perez family. They are lovely and with three boys around Eva´s age there is plenty of activity in the house and company for Eva. The father Patricio is the pastor at a Christian Church here in Banos so the living is clean, they play plenty of uplifting Christian music and there are always prayers before meals! ...somewhat of a novelty for Eva and I.

The classes at Mayra´s Spanish School were good. Much better than those in Otavalo, they actually had a program and worksheets. Eva has learnt a lot of vocabulary now but we still struggle with conversation. I can get my point across though and conjugate some verbs correctly! Eva however, has been told three times now by different Ecuadorianos that she speaks very well and without an accent so she was stoked with that. And of course is now correcting my pronunciation.

Mayra (Eva's teacher), Liliana (my teacher) Eva and I on our last day of classes.

Eva the brave, is now going to real school with the boys. She is in a year 4 class with about 40 other kids, so its pretty crowded and noisy! Although I think that 40 is a good class size here in Ecuador.

School starts here at 7:30am which is a bit of a challenge getting ready in time, but they finish at 1pm which definitely makes up for the early morning!

Getting ready on the first day. Obed lent Eva his uniform for the day

Having breakfast with the boys: Mateo, Obed and Joel, before school on the first day

Confidently walking into school with Mateo on the second day.

Lining up for morning assembly.

 









The experience of going to school here is incredible for Eva, it is so very different to home! Things are much more rustic, rules are very different, there is a lot more singing and There is definitely no interactive whiteboard! They also have to do practice drills each week in case the Volcano - Tungurahua erupts. All of the kids have to take a hat, glasses and a mask to school each day, just in case! They had a practice drill for it yesterday afternoon which was something to see.

Eva has been fascinated by the fact that the kids are allowed to climb treees, build cubbies, roll down hills and run amok in general in the playground and its all cool. Eva keeps saying that you aren't even allowed to pick up a stick in the playground at home! Here its like she can do anything!

The girls in the class have also been wonderful - adopting Eva into the group like she has always been there! Despite the fact that they don't really understand each other much. They even invited Eva to come and play after school on the first day.

Eva and the girls hanging out after school in the school playground - check out all the trees!

I just hope that things continue to go as well as they have started for Eva at school and this will definintely be a week to remember for her.

As for me, I'm supposed to be studying and getting Uni work done. At least the room that I am in has a beautiful view of a waterfall cascading down the side of a gorgeous green mountain shrouded in white clouds.